Maybe you found your old binder in a parent's attic. Maybe a family member left you a collection, or your kids moved out and left boxes behind. Either way, you are holding a pile of Pokémon cards and wondering two things: is any of this valuable, and how do I sell it without getting ripped off? This guide walks you through it.
Step 1: Do not throw anything away or clean anything
Leave the cards as they are. Do not wipe them, flatten them under books, or pull them out of old sleeves roughly. Condition is a big part of value, and well-meant cleaning does more harm than good.
Step 2: Split the collection into three piles
- Shiny cards (called holos), plus anything with a star in the bottom corner
- Sealed items: unopened packs, boxes and tins
- Everything else
Most of the value is almost always in the first two piles. The third pile is called bulk, and it sells by the hundred or thousand, not card by card.
Step 3: Learn to read a card
Look at the bottom of the card. You will find a card number, such as 4/102, and a small symbol that shows the rarity: a circle is common, a diamond is uncommon, and a star is rare. Near the artwork or at the bottom there is also a set symbol that tells you which release the card came from.
On older cards, check for a small "1st Edition" stamp on the left side below the artwork. Those can be worth far more than the regular version of the same card.
Step 4: Check what your best cards actually sell for
Take the cards from your first pile and look them up by name and card number. The most reliable numbers are recent sold prices, not asking prices. Anyone can list a card for $5,000. What matters is what people paid.
Be honest about condition when you compare. A card with whitening on the edges, scratches on the shiny part, or creases is worth a fraction of a clean copy.
Step 5: Decide whether grading is worth it
Grading means paying a company to seal a card in a plastic case with a condition score. It can raise the price of a rare card in excellent shape. It costs money and takes time, though, and it does not pay off for most cards. A good rule: only think about grading cards that already sell for a lot and look close to perfect.
Step 6: Pick how you want to sell
- Sell cards one by one online. Usually the most money, and by far the most work. Expect photos, listings, fees, shipping and the odd difficult buyer.
- Sell at a local card shop. Fast and simple. Offers vary, so visit more than one if you can.
- Sell to an online buyer. You see the rates up front, ship everything in one box, and get paid once it is checked in.
Many people do a mix: sell a few standout cards individually and send the rest to a buyer in one go.
How to avoid getting burned
- Be careful with anyone who pressures you to decide on the spot.
- Do not ship cards to a private buyer who wants to pay outside a platform with protections.
- Always ship with tracking, and take photos of what you send.
- Get offers in writing, with the rates shown before you commit.
Selling to M2M Collectibles
We buy Pokémon singles, bulk and sealed product from sellers anywhere in the US. Our buy rates are live, so you see what we pay before you send anything. You enter your cards, ship with tracking, and we pay your PayPal after we count and verify them. Sorting is optional, and the minimum is $10. Please note that we buy modern Pokémon cards and do not currently buy vintage cards from the 1990s and early 2000s. Check our live rates to see exactly which sets we take. If you are not sure what you have, contact us first and ask.
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